Finding a bra that fits you well can be a tricky task. However, with the proper knowledge, making your bra doesn’t have to be!
Understanding the different materials used in bra making will help create a comfortable bra that looks great and feels soft against your skin.
Duplex
Duplex is a sturdy, supportive fabric for bra cups and frames. It has little mechanical give on the cross grain and no stretch lengthwise, making it an ideal choice for lingerie and bra sewing. It’s also reversible and comes in many colors to match your bra design. This fabric doesn’t typically need to be lined, but you could choose to line it if you want a more comfortable garment.
The other main bra area that requires low to no movement is the under band and sideband. Depending on the pattern and personal preference for the right bra material for you, this can be made from various materials, but most are sewn from tricot or simplex. You can also use plush-backed or fold-over elastic to hem these areas. Some patterns will call for specific types of elastics, like sliders and rings for adjustable straps and g-hooks or hooks for closures. These can be purchased new or salvaged from old bras. It’s also possible to find bra kits that include most of these items, which makes it easy to collect all the necessary parts for your bra.
Simplex
In addition to lace and nylon, many other materials can be used in bra making. Generally speaking, these include cotton (for the inner lining), Spandex, spaghetti or elastic, and polyester, but the fabric options are limitless. For example, wool is famous for soft, breathable lingerie, and silk is often used for luxury lace bras.
Remember that the best choices are thin and smooth when choosing your cup fabric. Look for a knit that can stretch but has low to no movement. Nylon like Duplex or Simplex is an excellent option for your first bra because it is stable enough not to need a liner.
Another good option is tricot. This run-resistant knit can be made with 100% polyester, like duplex or nylon. It’s an excellent choice for your bra cups, and a little tricot interfacing on the inside can add even more support. Tricot is also commonly used to make swimwear and sportswear. If you want to be extra sure, a tricot interfacing with elastane can give your bras that extra boost they need.
Tricot
A bra requires more than fabric to create a comfortable and supportive fit. It also needs a wide variety of fasteners and closures, including sliders, rings, and g-hooks to make straps adjustable, channels for wires, and hook and eye clasps. In addition, there are plush-backed elastics and clear or decorative elastics such as picot that have a lace-like edging to give the finishing touch.
Tricot is a warp knit with vertical walls on one side and horizontal zigzags on the other. It is typically used to make lingerie but can also be found in different types of clothing. It’s breathable and moisture-wicking, making it ideal for lining a bra or other intimate garment. It’s also a good choice for sportswear because it is stretchy and flexible to move comfortably. Additionally, it’s antibacterial and quick-drying. Tricot is available in various textures and colors depending on the fibers used. It’s also run-resistant, so it won’t rip or tear when stretched. It is a good choice for activewear like yoga pants and athletic bras.
Power Mesh
The fabric selection can be overwhelming if you are a newbie to bra sewing. Choosing suitable materials will make your sew-along experience easier and more fun.
Power mesh is a finely woven medium-weight mesh perfect for light support bra bands and panties. It is breathable and has excellent recovery characteristics. Power mesh also looks great paired with lace.
You’ll often see this type of material used in figure control garments like control top pantyhose and control slips. It helps smooth the silhouette and doesn’t hold sweat, odors, or unwanted bacteria.
Mood offers a lightweight, 4-way stretch power mesh collection in vibrant colors and bold patterns. Whether making a basic everyday comfort bra or something more fancy, this is the perfect fabric to pair with your favorite lace for a fun and functional look. Power mesh is also available in shiny metallic options that resemble the chain mail that medieval knights would wear during battle. The best part? It doesn’t wrinkle!
Lining
Buying all the necessary fabrics can be overwhelming if you’re a first-time bra maker. That’s why many find purchasing a kit with all the materials needed to get started easier.
Wool: Wool is one of the most classic undergarment fabrics, especially for sports bras, as it is soft, breathable, and helps regulate body heat to stay comfortable from dawn to dusk. It also offers excellent uplift and support, even with heavy-weight bras or those made from lace.
Elastic – You can find different types of elastics such as plush-backed or fold-over, precise, or picot. Some are stretchy, and some are more supportive, so choose the one that best fits your design needs.
Lining: Often, you will need lining fabric for your bras. The lining stabilizes so the cups won’t stretch too much. For example, if you used a very soft and stretchy material for the cups of your Jordy Bralette, it will likely need to be lined with something more stable, such as a duplex, simplex, or tricot fabric.
